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But the evidence so far has prompted the International Agency for Research on Cancer (an intergovernmental agency set up by the World Health Organisation) to label the chemical a ‘probable human carcinogen’.

You might scoff at the suggestion, but it comes as evidence emerges to show the snack is bad news — fuelling not just the obesity and heart disease epidemics, but linked to developmental problems in unborn babies, hyperactivity in children and potentially cancer in adults.

His investigations have revealed how decades of research by food-making giants have transformed crisps from the mildly enticing snacks of the Seventies into products designed to smart-bomb our brains’ craving centres with precision chemistry.

‘On the ingredients list, the sugar content appears to be low.

But that list recognises only simple sugars and ignores more complex forms, such as carbohydrates, which the mouth breaks down into sugars.’The study, reported in the Journal of Pediatrics, involved 181 children, aged between eight and 11 years, who were asked to watch a cartoon that was interrupted either by one of three different adverts (one of which was Lineker endorsing Walkers crisps) or by footage of Lineker presenting Match Of The Day.

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